Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and travelers alike swearing by its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, Unesco designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a select roster of global cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it enters a global network of more than four hundred metropolises across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "demonstrates its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and lively food ecosystem," as stated by a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of 70 cities internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this time-honored city comes as no surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, bustling, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is finally in the limelight for what has perennially defined its essence: an immense passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a constant discussion from morning until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and taken to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, merging Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. The story goes that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases local ingredients but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on countless corners, there are small establishments and carts – hidden treasures that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a simple joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and complicated. The vendor whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but note that their children do not want to take up the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will motivate more people globally to learn these tales and travel to the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
