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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate renowned Michelin-starred venues. However, situated near the top among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu found in a distant part of northern London.

A Shocking Honour

This compact Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. This accolade has made the family totally astonished.

“I am completely shocked,” remarks the family member, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their humble restaurant securing such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has maintained much of its original charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking show, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the fare, and this eatery certainly excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, toastier and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Stars

Interestingly, this modest spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for below £25, comparable tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite establishments. “I feel very proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate outside its own walls. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this culinary triumph.